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Rising to 1182 feet, and thereby narrowly achieving the technical
status of a mountain, the broad, sensuous, double peaked bulk of Yeavering
Bell dominates the north Cheviot foothills.
It was formed in the Devonian period, some 350 million years ago in
the violent volcanic eruptions which created the entire Cheviot range.
These hills were sculpted into their present rounded shape by a succession
of glaciers during the ice ages.
The Bell has always fired the human imagination and, indeed, local
people still gauge the weather, time and the progress of the seasons
with reference to the Bell. Four thousand years ago the people used
the Bell to align stones and monuments. It has always, it seems, been
a place of significance.
Aerial photograph by Keith Latty (Borders Gliding Club)
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The hill is crowned with the largest hill fort in Northumberland.
The term 'hill fort' is misleading, as a casual visit will testify.
Both peaks of the hill are surrounded by the tumbled remains of what
must have been an immense and impressive wall.
The obvious function of such a structure is that of defence, but Yeavering
must have served a different purpose to that of the dozens of smaller
'forts' that pepper the surrounding hilltops. The walls at Yeavering,
built from pink andesite and probably quarried from within the hill
itself, could well have been a kind of status symbol. A demonstration
of the wealth and power of the builders.
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Inside the wall, an area of thirteen acres, are the still visible sites
of over one hundred huts and other structures. The blue dots on the diagram
below show the position of the more obvious of these. |
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In the valley to the south of the Bell can be seen
the remains of stock enclosures and field patterns are visible on the
facing hillside. The main entrance to the township is visible on the
south side of the ruined walls.
This was no simple military hill fort then, this was a whole
town on the top of Yeavering Bell.
Although no serious excavations have taken place on the Bell a crude
dig in the middle of the nineteenth century yielded some small finds
attributable to the first century AD.
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In 1958 one or two of the hut circles
were briefly excavated by Brian Hope-Taylor. Roman items were unearthed
in one hut and sherds of Samian pottery were found in anorther. These
finds confirm that the settlement was in use in the first century AD.
A survey in 1998 was undertaken by Keith Blood and Trevor Pearson of
RCHME as a part of the 'Discovering Our Hillfort Heritage' project.
The results of this survey are the most up to date insight we have on
the structure of the township on The Bell. |
Yeavering Bell looking South West. Photography by Keith Latty (Borders
Gliding Club). |
The hillfort on Yeavering Bell is usually thought to date from the
latter half of the first millennium BC, although it certainly could be
earlier and a late Bronze Age origin much closer to 1000 BC is not improbable.
During the late Iron Age and Romano British periods parts of the lower
slopes of the bell became littered with enclosed settlements and associated
field systems, but without further investigation in the field it is impossible
to to know how these sites relate, chronologically, to the hillfort. |
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A field to the North of Yeavering Bell (the Field immediatley to
the East of the row of cottges at NT924303) is the site of the Yeavering
Henge. The henge was investigated in 1976 by Anthony Harding. Harding's
investigations were part of a larger project studying the henges on
the Milfield Plain, to the North of Yeavering. The Milfield Henge was
itself aligned to Yeavering Bell and a reconstruction can be seen at
the Maelmin Heritage Trail in Milfield. The Yeavering Henge was aligned
with Ross Castle. These alignments may relate to places with, perhaps,
spiritual significance pre dating the henges themselves.
In the next field to the East you will find (NT930314) what is known
as the Yeavering Battle Stone. This Bronze Age megalith stands in an
area where remains of burial pits and the debris of mesolithic flint
working have been found. In the late Middle Ages it took on new meaning
and significance when it became seen as marking the spot where Sir
Robert Umfraville and the Earl of Westmoreland with 140 spearmen and
300 bowmen defeated 4000 Scots in 1415. However the stone was already
ancient when King Edwin dined at Ad Gefrin several centuries before
the battle the stone is thought to comemorate took place. The Ordnance
Survey map is one way this myth is kept alive.
It fell down in 1890 and was re-erected in 1924 on a concrete base
but cannot be far from it's original position The stone is associated
with the henge which stood 120m to the West.. |
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From the earliest days Yeavering Bell has been a special place.
A sacred place. A place today to fire the imagination. And really we
know so little. We have glimpses of threads we would love to weave
together to tell us more. To let us see the whole tapestry locked in
the hills. Until the chance comes to investigate Yeavering and Ad Gefrin
further we must be content to remain in the Dark Ages.
As anyone who has been to Yeavering Bell will tell you, climbing to
that double summit is well worth the effort. Even simply for the splendid
views to the North and out over the North Sea, where Lindisfarne is
easily visible. The scenery to the south, over the Cheviot range, is
staggering too. But the view into our past is where Yeavering can stop
you in your tracks.
For example...
Recently I lead a day long guided walk
around Yeavering for thirty individuals including schoolteachers,
a retired GP, a Tyneside docker, farm workers and archaeology
students. Some of these people live locally while others had
traveled considerable distances to take part in the walk. The
weather was perfect with a covering of crisp snow on the ground
and bright sunshine all day.
Having taken many guided walks to wonderful archaeological
sites throughout the Cheviots over the years I was quite taken
aback by the reaction of these individuals to Yeavering. They
were all spellbound by the place and one couple even described
the day as one of the best of their lives.
A recent survey of visitors to the nearby town of Wooler
established that 95% of them would like to visit Yeavering
if it could be opened to the public, even though most knew
very little about it. Put simply there is something special
about Yeavering that, while hard to define, is felt by most
visitors. People in the past must also have reacted as strongly
to this sense of place and it is their reactions that resulted
in, and are now reflected in, the changes in the landscape
that we seek to explain today.
Paul Frodsham. (National Park archaeologist) |
Click Here for
a panorama from the top of Yeavering Bell
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